Complete Lawn Care FAQ Hub

Answers to Common Oklahoma Lawn Care Questions

Welcome to Complete Lawn Care’s FAQ knowledge hub! Below you’ll find honest, straightforward answers to the questions we hear most from Tulsa-area homeowners. No fluff, no sales pitch—just helpful information from your local lawn care experts. For more in-depth guides on any topic, check out our blog or give us a call.

CHOOSING A LAWN CARE PROVIDER

Which is the best lawn care company?

The best lawn care company is one that knows your local soil, climate, and grass types—and actually shows up when they say they will. In the Tulsa area, that means finding someone who understands our clay-heavy soil, knows the difference between caring for Bermuda versus Fescue, and won’t ghost you mid-season. Complete Lawn Care has been serving Tulsa-area homeowners since 2000, and we’d love to show you what “best” actually looks like.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I choose the right lawn care company?

Look for a company that’s locally owned, has real reviews from real neighbors, and will answer your questions without making you feel dumb. Ask about their program structure, whether they tailor treatments to Oklahoma’s wild weather swings, and if they offer soil testing (spoiler: we do). Avoid companies that pressure you into long contracts or dodge questions about pricing. Complete Lawn Care offers free consultations—no pressure, just honest answers.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Who is better, Lawn Doctor or TruGreen?

Both are national franchises, so your experience depends entirely on which local franchise you get—it’s a bit of a coin flip. The real question is whether a one-size-fits-all national program makes sense for Oklahoma’s unique conditions. Our clay soil, Bermuda grass, and 100-degree summers need a local touch, not a corporate playbook written in New Jersey. Complete Lawn Care builds programs specifically for Tulsa-area lawns.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What company is better than TruGreen?

Many Tulsa homeowners find that local, family-owned companies deliver better results than TruGreen because we actually live here and understand the local quirks. We know that our clay soil needs different treatment than sandy coastal lawns, and we’re not following a script from corporate headquarters. Complete Lawn Care has been locally owned and operated since 2000—we’re your neighbors, not a 1-800 number.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Who is cheaper than TruGreen?

Several local companies in Oklahoma are priced competitively with TruGreen, sometimes lower. But here’s the thing—cheap service that doesn’t work costs you more in the long run (ask anyone who’s had to resod their yard). Complete Lawn Care offers transparent pricing and free quotes, so you can compare apples to apples and make the best choice for your lawn and budget.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How much is Lawn Doctor compared to TruGreen?

Both typically range from $50 to $100+ per treatment depending on lawn size. But comparing two national chains misses an important option: local companies often provide similar or better pricing with way more personalized service. At Complete Lawn Care, we give you an honest quote based on your actual lawn—no hidden fees, no surprises, and no “your call is important to us” hold music.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the number one lawn care company in the US?

TruGreen is the largest by revenue and customer count. But biggest doesn’t mean best for YOUR lawn. National chains use standardized programs designed to work “okay” everywhere, which often means they work “great” nowhere. For Oklahoma homeowners, a local company that knows our specific challenges will almost always deliver better results than the biggest name on the truck.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What brand do landscapers use?

Professional lawn care companies use commercial-grade products from brands like Lesco, Lebanon Turf, and Anderson’s—stuff you won’t find at Home Depot. These products are more concentrated and effective, designed for precise application by trained technicians. At Complete Lawn Care, we select products specifically suited to Oklahoma soil and grass types, not whatever’s on sale at the big box store.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Is Lowe’s or Home Depot better for lawn care?

Neither can truly replace professional knowledge. Both sell similar consumer-grade products that can work for basic maintenance, but they can’t diagnose your specific lawn problems, test your soil, or tell you why that one spot keeps dying. If you’re committed to DIY, either store will do. But if you want results without the guesswork, Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program is often more affordable than years of trial-and-error purchases.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Is professional lawn care worth it?

For most Tulsa homeowners, yes. When you add up equipment costs, product purchases, your time, and the inevitable mistakes, professional care often costs about the same—with better results. Plus, you get your weekends back (and let’s be honest, nobody wants to push a mower in August when it’s 105 degrees). Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program takes the guesswork out of lawn care.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Why should I hire a lawn care company?

Time, expertise, and results. A good lawn care company knows exactly what your Oklahoma lawn needs and when it needs it—no Googling required. We have commercial-grade products you can’t buy at retail, equipment that actually works, and the experience to diagnose problems before they become disasters. Complete Lawn Care has been doing this since 2000, so you don’t have to become a lawn scientist yourself.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

PRICING & SERVICE EXPECTATIONS

How much does TruGreen usually cost?

TruGreen typically charges $50-$100+ per treatment, with most homeowners paying $400-$800 annually depending on lawn size and services. Pricing varies by location and square footage. Before signing up, get quotes from local providers too—you might be surprised. Complete Lawn Care offers free quotes so you can make an informed comparison.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How much is TruGreen a month?

When spread across the year, most TruGreen customers pay $40-$80 per month. But lawn care isn’t really a monthly service—it’s seasonal, with treatments timed to what your lawn actually needs. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program bills per application, so you’re paying for results, not a subscription.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the average cost to have your lawn mowed?

In Tulsa, most homeowners pay $35-$75 per mow for a standard residential lawn, depending on size and complexity. Larger properties, lots of obstacles, or hilly terrain cost more. Complete Lawn Care’s weekly mowing service includes mowing, edging, and trimming at competitive rates—and we actually show up when we say we will.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How much do most lawn mowing companies charge?

Professional mowing in Oklahoma runs $35-$75 per visit for average residential lawns (5,000-10,000 square feet). Be cautious of quotes that seem too cheap—that usually means corners are being cut (pun intended). Complete Lawn Care provides honest quotes based on your specific property, not bait-and-switch pricing.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How much to charge for 1 hour of mowing?

Most professional services work out to $50-$80 per man-hour when you factor in labor, equipment, fuel, and insurance. But we quote per job, not per hour, because lawn size and conditions vary so much. At Complete Lawn Care, your quote is your quote—no clock-watching, no surprises.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How much money should I get for mowing my lawn?

Great question—what’s your time worth? Professional mowing costs $35-$75 per visit. If mowing takes you an hour-plus, add equipment wear, gas, and the joy of Oklahoma summer heat… hiring a pro often makes financial (and sanity) sense. Complete Lawn Care’s weekly service means you can spend Saturdays doing literally anything else.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How much does a full yard cleanup cost?

Full yard cleanups in Tulsa typically run $150-$400+, depending on property size and how much debris we’re dealing with. Spring and fall cleanups with leaf removal, bed work, and pruning cost more than a basic mow-and-edge. Contact Complete Lawn Care for a quote specific to your cleanup needs.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Is it worth paying someone to mow your lawn?

For many Tulsa homeowners, absolutely. Add up your mower payment, maintenance, gas, trimmer line, your time, and the privilege of sweating through Oklahoma summers… professional mowing often costs about the same. Plus, we follow proper mowing practices that actually improve your lawn’s health. Complete Lawn Care would love to give you your weekends back.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Do you tip people who mow your lawn?

Tipping isn’t expected, but it’s always appreciated—especially during brutal summer heat or holidays. If you have a regular crew that does great work, a tip at the end of the season or around Christmas is a nice gesture. Honestly though? The best “tip” is just paying on time and being easy to communicate with. We remember the good ones.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is considered full-service lawn care?

Full service typically includes mowing, edging, trimming, fertilization, weed control, and pest management as a complete package. Some companies add aeration, overseeding, and seasonal cleanups. At Complete Lawn Care, our full-service approach combines weekly mowing with our 7-step lawn care program—one company, one relationship, one great lawn.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What’s the difference between lawn care and lawn service?

“Lawn service” usually means mowing and basic maintenance. “Lawn care” typically includes fertilization, weed control, and pest management—the stuff that keeps your lawn actually healthy. Some companies do one or the other; Complete Lawn Care does both. Our 7-step program handles health; our weekly mowing handles maintenance. Easy.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Do I need to be home for lawn care service?

Nope! Most of our customers aren’t home when we service their lawn. Just make sure we can access the property (unlocked gates, pets inside), and we’ll take care of everything. We’ll leave a service summary and let you know exactly what we did. At Complete Lawn Care, we treat your property like we’d want ours treated—whether you’re watching or not.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Does lawn care service continue automatically?

It depends on the company—always ask. Some auto-renew, some don’t. At Complete Lawn Care, we believe in relationships, not gotchas. We’ll communicate clearly about your service schedule and never surprise you with charges you didn’t expect. Just good service, clearly explained.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the 80/20 rule for house cleaning?

The 80/20 rule (Pareto Principle) says 80% of results come from 20% of efforts. For lawns, this means consistent mowing, proper fertilization, and weed control deliver most of your results. The other 20%? Detail work like edging and bed maintenance. Complete Lawn Care’s full-service approach handles both—the fundamentals AND the finishing touches.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the most expensive part of landscaping?

Hardscaping (patios, retaining walls, and outdoor kitchens) and irrigation installation typically cost the most upfront. For ongoing costs, professional lawn programs and regular mowing are the biggest line items—but they’re also the most predictable. No surprise repairs, no equipment breakdowns. Just consistent care, consistent billing.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

MOWING & LAWN MAINTENANCE

Is it better to cut grass weekly or biweekly?

In Oklahoma, weekly is almost always better during the growing season (April-October). Our Bermuda grass grows like it’s training for the Olympics in summer, and biweekly mowing means you’ll violate the 1/3 rule and stress your lawn. During cooler months or drought, you can stretch to biweekly. Complete Lawn Care adjusts frequency based on actual growing conditions—not a rigid schedule.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the 1/3 rule in mowing?

Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade in a single mowing. Cut more than that and you stress the lawn, weaken roots, and basically give your grass a bad haircut it can’t recover from. This is why weekly mowing matters when grass is growing fast—let it get too tall and you’re forced to scalp it. Complete Lawn Care follows this rule religiously.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the healthiest length to cut grass?

For Bermuda grass (most common in Tulsa): 1.5-2.5 inches. For fescue lawns: 3-4 inches. The right height helps grass develop deeper roots, retain moisture, and crowd out weeds. Many homeowners cut too short, thinking it means mowing less often—it actually just weakens the lawn. Complete Lawn Care sets heights specifically for your grass type.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

When should you not mow your lawn?

Skip mowing when grass is wet (clumping, disease risk), during drought stress (you’ll make it worse), in extreme heat of the day (hard on you AND the grass), or when it’s dormant in winter. Basically, if the grass isn’t actively growing or conditions are harsh, put the mower away. Your lawn will thank you.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What month should you not cut your grass?

In Oklahoma, you can typically stop regular mowing in late November or December when Bermuda goes dormant. January and February are usually mow-free months—enjoy the break! Mowing resumes when you see consistent green-up, usually in March or April. Fescue lawns may need occasional winter mowing since they stay semi-active in cooler weather.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Is October too late to mow?

Not at all—October is still mowing season in Oklahoma! Bermuda grass is slowing down but still growing. Keep mowing as needed until growth stops (usually sometime in November). Just maintain proper height and don’t scalp it before dormancy. Complete Lawn Care keeps mowing through fall as long as your lawn needs it.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Do I need to cut grass in September?

Yes! September is still prime mowing time in Oklahoma. Summer’s intense growth is slowing, but Bermuda is still very much active. Keep your regular schedule and follow the 1/3 rule. Complete Lawn Care continues weekly mowing through the fall growing season—we don’t disappear just because football started.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Does frequent mowing thicken grass?

Yes! Regular mowing encourages grass to spread horizontally rather than just shooting up tall. This is especially true for Bermuda, which thickens beautifully with consistent mowing at the proper height. Infrequent mowing that requires removing too much at once actually weakens the lawn and slows thickening. Consistency wins.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Does putting grass clippings on bare spots help grass grow?

Not really. Clippings break down into nutrients (good!), but they don’t contain viable seeds for most Oklahoma lawns. Bermuda spreads by runners, not seed clippings. To fix bare spots, you need to address the underlying problem, let surrounding grass spread in, or overseed with the right seed. Complete Lawn Care can diagnose why bare spots keep appearing.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Is it illegal to mow your lawn at 7am?

In most Tulsa-area cities, noise ordinances restrict loud equipment before 7am on weekdays and 9am on weekends. So 7am on a Tuesday? Technically legal, but your neighbors might not love you. Complete Lawn Care starts routes at reasonable morning hours—early enough to beat the heat, late enough to keep the peace.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How late is it rude to mow?

Most people consider mowing after 8pm inconsiderate, especially on weeknights when folks are winding down. Many city ordinances restrict lawn equipment after 9-10pm anyway. The sweet spot? 8am-8pm. Complete Lawn Care schedules services during normal daytime hours—we want to be good neighbors too.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Why is it illegal to not mow your lawn?

Most cities have property maintenance codes requiring grass below a certain height (usually 8-12 inches) for health, safety, and property value reasons. Overgrown lawns harbor pests, create fire hazards, and make the whole neighborhood look rough. Got a city notice? Complete Lawn Care can get your lawn back in compliance quickly.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Why do people do No Mow May?

No Mow May encourages skipping mowing in May to help early pollinators. Great intentions, but it doesn’t work well in Oklahoma—our Bermuda grows insanely fast in May, and not mowing means you’ll have to scalp it (badly) later. A better approach: maintain your lawn normally but create separate pollinator-friendly areas. Best of both worlds.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Why is April No Mow Month?

Some cooler-climate regions promote April as No Mow Month for pollinators. But those campaigns come from places where grass barely grows in April. In Oklahoma? Our lawns are waking up and actively growing by April. Skipping a whole month would be a disaster. Support pollinators another way—your lawn still needs regular care.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I identify my grass type?

Look at blade width, color, and growth pattern. Bermuda is fine-textured, spreads aggressively, and goes brown in winter. Fescue has wider blades, grows in clumps, and stays somewhat green year-round. Zoysia is dense with a distinctive texture. Not sure? Send us a photo—Complete Lawn Care is happy to help you identify what you’re working with.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the best grass for Oklahoma?

Bermuda grass is king in Oklahoma—it loves our hot summers, tolerates drought, and thrives in full sun. For shady areas, fescue or Zoysia works better. The “best” grass depends on your specific conditions: sun exposure, water availability, and how much traffic your lawn gets. Complete Lawn Care can help you figure out what works for your yard.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is Bermuda grass?

Bermuda is the most common lawn grass in Oklahoma—that fine-textured, spreading grass that turns brown in winter and comes back green in spring. It loves heat, handles drought well, and spreads aggressively to fill in bare areas. Most Tulsa lawns are Bermuda, and Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program is designed specifically for it.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is fescue grass?

Fescue is a cool-season grass with wider blades that stays semi-green through winter. It’s better for shady areas where Bermuda struggles, but it doesn’t love Oklahoma’s brutal summers. Many Tulsa lawns are a mix. If you have fescue, it needs different care than Bermuda—Complete Lawn Care tailors our approach to your specific grass type.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is Zoysia grass?

Zoysia is a warm-season grass known for its thick, carpet-like texture and excellent shade tolerance. It’s more drought-resistant than fescue but slower to establish than Bermuda. Zoysia can be a great choice for Oklahoma lawns—just know it requires specific care. Complete Lawn Care works with all common Oklahoma grass types.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I take care of a lawn for the first time?

Start with the basics: mow weekly at the right height, water deeply but infrequently, and don’t skip fertilization and weed control. Get your soil tested so you know what you’re working with. Sound overwhelming? That’s normal. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program handles the technical stuff while you learn—no shame in calling for backup.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What lawn care should I do myself?

Regular mowing is totally DIY-friendly if you have the time and equipment. Watering is on you (unless you have smart irrigation). The tricky stuff—fertilization timing, weed identification, pest control—benefits from professional expertise. Many homeowners do mowing themselves and hire Complete Lawn Care for the 7-step program. Best of both worlds.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I start a lawn care routine?

Step one: figure out what grass type you have. Step two: mow at the right height, regularly. Step three: water properly (deep and infrequent beats shallow and daily). Step four: get on a fertilization and weed control program. Complete Lawn Care can handle steps two through four while you enjoy your lawn instead of stressing about it.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What tools do I need for DIY lawn care?

At minimum: a quality mower with sharp blades, a string trimmer, an edger (or use the trimmer sideways), a rake, and a hose/sprinkler. For fertilization and weed control, you’ll need a spreader and sprayer—plus knowledge of what products to use when. Or… Complete Lawn Care shows up with everything needed, and you just enjoy the results.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

WEED CONTROL & FERTILIZATION

Is October too late to fertilize a lawn?

Nope—October is actually excellent timing for Oklahoma lawns! Fall fertilization helps your lawn store nutrients for winter dormancy and promotes stronger spring green-up. For Bermuda, apply before it goes fully dormant in November. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program includes properly timed fall fertilization—we’ve got the calendar covered.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Is October too late to fertilize?

For Oklahoma? October is prime time, not too late. It’s actually one of the most important fertilization windows for our lawns. Apply before the first hard freeze to help your Bermuda build root reserves. Complete Lawn Care’s fall applications are timed specifically for our climate—no guessing required.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the best fertilizer to put on your lawn in the fall?

For Oklahoma lawns in fall, look for fertilizer with higher potassium (the third number in N-P-K) to strengthen roots for winter. Something like 15-0-15 works well. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers late in fall—they promote tender growth that can’t handle frost. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program uses professional-grade fall formulas for our region.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

When should you not put fertilizer on your lawn?

Skip fertilizing during drought stress, extreme heat (above 95°F), when grass is dormant, or right before heavy rain (it’ll just wash away your money). In Oklahoma, that means being careful during summer heat waves and stopping once Bermuda goes dormant in late fall. Complete lawn care times applications around these conditions.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Can I put 10-10-10 fertilizer on my lawn?

You can, but it’s not ideal. 10-10-10 is a general-purpose fertilizer better suited for gardens than lawns. Turf typically needs more nitrogen than phosphorus, and many Oklahoma soils already have plenty of phosphorus. A soil test tells you exactly what your lawn needs. Complete Lawn Care offers soil testing to eliminate the guesswork.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the first thing you put on your lawn in the spring?

Pre-emergent herbicide! This prevents crabgrass and other summer weeds from germinating. Timing is everything—apply before soil temperatures hit 55°F consistently, usually late February to early March in Tulsa. Miss this window and you’ll be fighting weeds all summer. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program starts with properly timed pre-emergent.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the 150 rule for lawns?

It’s a guideline for pre-emergent timing: apply when soil temperatures reach 55°F for several consecutive days. The “150” comes from older recommendations about cumulative temperatures. In Oklahoma, this usually happens from late February to early March. Complete Lawn Care monitors soil temps so your pre-emergent goes down at exactly the right time.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is lawn fertilization?

Fertilization is feeding your lawn the nutrients it needs to grow thick and healthy—primarily nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium (plus micronutrients). Think of it as vitamins for your grass. Without proper fertilization, your lawn can’t compete with weeds or recover from stress. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program includes balanced fertilization throughout the growing season.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How often should I fertilize my lawn?

Oklahoma Bermuda lawns typically need 4-6 fertilizer applications per year, spaced throughout the growing season (roughly March through October). Over-fertilizing is as bad as under-fertilizing—more isn’t better. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program spaces applications properly so your lawn gets what it needs when it needs it.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What do the numbers on fertilizer mean?

The three numbers (like 15-0-15) represent nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium percentages. Nitrogen promotes leaf growth (makes it green), phosphorus helps roots, and potassium builds overall strength. Different seasons call for different ratios. Complete Lawn Care selects the right formula for each application—so you don’t have to decode bags at Home Depot.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the best fertilizer for Bermuda grass?

Bermuda loves nitrogen during active growth (higher first number), but balanced formulas work best overall. In Oklahoma, we recommend professional-grade slow-release fertilizers that feed steadily without burning. The “best” fertilizer depends on your soil’s existing nutrient levels—which is why Complete Lawn Care recommends annual soil testing.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the best fertilizer for fescue grass?

Fescue needs less nitrogen than Bermuda and benefits from fall fertilization more than spring. A balanced slow-release formula works well. Because Fescue struggles in Oklahoma summers, timing matters more than with Bermuda. Complete Lawn Care adjusts our program based on your grass type—fescue gets different treatment than Bermuda.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Should I use organic or synthetic fertilizer?

Both can work well. Organic fertilizers release slowly and improve soil health over time. Synthetic fertilizers provide quicker results and more precise nutrient control. Many professional programs (including Complete Lawn Care’s) use a combination to get the benefits of both. The best choice depends on your goals and patience level.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How long after lawn treatment can I water?

For most fertilizer applications, watering within 24 hours actually helps activate the product. For weed control, wait at least 24 hours to let the product absorb into weed leaves. Your technician should leave specific instructions. Complete Lawn Care always communicates what to do (and not do) after each treatment.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What happens to my lawn after a fertilizer application?

You might not see dramatic results immediately—fertilizer works gradually. Within 1-2 weeks, you should notice improved color and growth. Some temporary yellowing or browning is normal as products activate. If something looks wrong, call your provider. Complete Lawn Care follows up after applications to make sure everything’s progressing as expected.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How long does it take for weed killer to work?

Most post-emergent herbicides take 7-14 days to fully kill weeds. You’ll see wilting and yellowing within a few days, then gradual death. Some stubborn weeds need multiple applications. Patience is key—don’t panic if weeds don’t disappear overnight. Complete Lawn Care will retreat problem areas if needed at no extra charge.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I identify weeds in my lawn?

Look at leaf shape, growth pattern, and flowers. Broadleaf weeds (dandelions, clover) look obviously different from grass. Grassy weeds (crabgrass) are trickier—they look like grass but grow differently. When in doubt, take a photo and ask a pro. Complete Lawn Care can identify your weeds and recommend the right treatment approach.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the difference between broadleaf weeds and grassy weeds?

Broadleaf weeds have wide, obvious leaves (think dandelions, clover, and chickweed). Grassy weeds look like grass but aren’t your lawn grass (crabgrass, dallisgrass). This matters because they require different herbicides. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program addresses both types throughout the season.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I get rid of clover in my lawn?

Clover responds well to broadleaf herbicides, but a healthy, thick lawn is your best long-term defense—clover thrives in thin, nitrogen-deficient turf. Proper fertilization often reduces clover naturally. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program addresses both the symptom (clover) and the cause (lawn health).

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I get rid of crabgrass?

Prevention is 90% of the battle—pre-emergent herbicide in early spring stops crabgrass before it starts. Once it’s growing, post-emergent products can help, but they’re less effective. If you’re seeing crabgrass now, focus on preventing next year’s crop. Complete Lawn Care’s spring pre-emergent application is specifically timed for crabgrass prevention.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I get rid of dandelions?

Dandelions respond well to broadleaf herbicides, and one or two applications usually handle them. But here’s the thing—dandelions are opportunists. They pop up in thin, weak turf. A thick, healthy lawn naturally crowds them out. Complete Lawn Care treats the dandelions AND builds lawn health so they don’t keep coming back.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is pre-emergent herbicide?

Pre-emergent creates a chemical barrier in the soil that prevents weed seeds from germinating—it stops weeds before they start. It doesn’t kill existing weeds; it prevents new ones. Timing is critical (too late = no protection), which is why Complete Lawn Care monitors soil temperatures to apply at exactly the right time.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

When should I apply pre-emergent in Oklahoma?

Late February to early March for spring weeds (crabgrass), and again in fall for winter weeds. The key is applying before soil temperatures reach 55°F consistently. Miss the window and you’re chasing weeds all season. Complete Lawn Care times this perfectly—it’s one of the most important applications we do.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Can I do my own lawn fertilization?

You can! But getting it right requires knowing your soil’s needs (soil test), choosing the right products, applying at the right rate, and timing applications correctly throughout the season. Many homeowners try DIY and end up with burned lawns or weed problems. Complete Lawn Care takes the guesswork out—and often costs less than repeated DIY mistakes.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What soil pH is best for lawns?

Most lawn grasses prefer a pH between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). Oklahoma soils often run a bit alkaline. If pH is off, your lawn can’t properly absorb nutrients no matter how much you fertilize. A soil test reveals your pH—Complete Lawn Care offers soil testing and can recommend amendments if needed.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I test my lawn soil?

You can buy DIY test kits or send samples to Oklahoma State University’s extension service. But honestly? Let us do it. Complete Lawn Care offers professional soil testing that tells you exactly what nutrients your lawn needs and what adjustments to make. No guessing, no interpreting confusing results. Just answers.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

WATERING & IRRIGATION

Is 30 minutes of watering grass enough?

It depends on your sprinkler output, but 30 minutes is often MORE than enough—sometimes too much. The goal is about 1 inch of water per week total. Oklahoma’s clay soil absorbs water slowly, so shorter sessions (15-20 minutes) often work better than one long soak that causes runoff. Complete Lawn Care can help optimize your irrigation schedule.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Should you still water grass in October?

Yes, continue watering if rainfall is insufficient, though you’ll need less as temperatures cool. Bermuda is still active until dormancy and needs moisture. Gradually reduce frequency as temps drop. Complete Lawn Care can help adjust your irrigation for seasonal changes—including our irrigation repair, maintenance, and service offerings.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How much water does my lawn need?

Oklahoma lawns need about 1-1.5 inches of water per week during active growth, including rainfall. In summer heat, closer to 1.5 inches; in cooler weather, closer to 1 inch. Use a rain gauge to track what you’re actually applying. Complete Lawn Care can help calibrate your irrigation system for optimal watering.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the best time to water my lawn?

Early morning (before 10am) is ideal—it’s cooler, there’s less wind, and grass has time to dry before nightfall. Watering at night promotes fungal disease. Midday watering wastes water to evaporation. Morning watering = happy lawn, lower water bills, and fewer disease problems. Set that timer!

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How often should I water my lawn in summer?

In Oklahoma summers, most lawns need watering 2-3 times per week—deeply, not daily. Daily light watering creates shallow roots and weak grass. Deep, infrequent watering encourages roots to grow down seeking moisture, making your lawn more drought-tolerant. Quality over quantity!

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Can I overwater my lawn?

Absolutely! Overwatering is as damaging as underwatering. It promotes shallow roots, fungal disease, and wasted money. Signs of overwatering: spongy lawn, mushrooms, yellowing grass, and constant wetness. If your lawn squishes when you walk on it, back off the irrigation. More isn’t always better.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I know if my lawn needs water?

Walk across your lawn—if footprints stay visible for more than a few seconds, the grass is stressed and needs water. You can also look for a bluish-gray color (instead of bright green) or check soil moisture with a screwdriver. If it’s hard to push in, the soil is dry. Easy tricks that work every time.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Should I water my lawn every day?

No! Daily watering creates shallow roots and actually weakens your lawn over time. Water deeply 2-3 times per week instead. This trains roots to grow deep, making your lawn more drought-tolerant and healthier overall. Save water, save money, and get a better lawn. Win-win-win.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

SEASONAL LAWN CARE & TIMING

What is the best time of year for lawn care?

Lawn care is year-round in Oklahoma, but spring (March-May) and fall (September-November) are most critical. Spring is when you prevent weeds and start fertilization; fall is when you build root strength for winter. Summer focuses on proper mowing and watering. Winter? Rest up—you earned it. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program covers all seasons.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Is October too late to lay turf?

October can work, but it’s not ideal. Bermuda sod needs warm soil to establish roots, and October’s cooling temps mean slower establishment. If you must lay sod in October, do it early in the month and water consistently. Spring (April-June) is the best time for Bermuda sod in Oklahoma.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Is October too late to seed a lawn?

For Bermuda: yes, too late. Bermuda seed needs warm soil (65°F+) and won’t establish before winter. BUT—October is actually the PERFECT time to overseed fescue lawns. Cool temps and fall moisture help fescue germinate beautifully. Different grass types, different rules.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is lawn aeration?

Aeration is poking holes in your lawn (really). A machine removes small plugs of soil, relieving compaction and allowing air, water, and nutrients to reach roots. It’s like physical therapy for your lawn. Oklahoma’s clay soil compacts easily, making aeration especially important here. Complete Lawn Care offers professional aeration service.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Why is aeration important for my lawn?

Oklahoma’s clay soil compacts easily, which suffocates roots and blocks water absorption. Aeration opens things up, allowing your lawn to breathe and absorb nutrients properly. It also helps break down thatch and creates the perfect environment for overseeding. If your lawn is thin or struggling, aeration often helps.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

When is the best time to aerate my lawn?

For Bermuda (most Oklahoma lawns): late spring to early summer when grass is actively growing. For Fescue: fall is best. Never aerate during drought stress or dormancy—the lawn needs to be actively growing to recover. Complete Lawn Care times aeration to your grass type and conditions.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How often should I aerate my lawn?

Most Oklahoma lawns benefit from annual aeration. Heavy clay soil, high foot traffic, or chronic compaction issues might warrant twice yearly. Sandier soil or low-traffic lawns can sometimes stretch to every other year. Complete Lawn Care can assess your specific situation and recommend the right frequency.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Should I leave aeration plugs on my lawn?

Yes! Leave them alone. Those little soil plugs break down in a week or two and return nutrients to the soil. Raking them up removes beneficial material and adds unnecessary work. We promise they’ll disappear—and your lawn will be better for it.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What should I do after aeration?

Water the lawn to help plugs break down faster. If overseeding (Fescue), now’s the time—seeds settle into the holes for better germination. Fertilize to give your lawn nutrients it can now actually absorb. Then avoid heavy traffic for a week or so. Complete Lawn Care can handle the full post-aeration care plan.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the difference between spike and core aeration?

Spike aeration just pokes holes; core aeration removes actual plugs of soil. Core aeration is vastly better—spike aeration can actually INCREASE compaction by pushing soil sideways. Always choose core aeration. It’s like the difference between poking a hole in clay versus actually removing material. Complete Lawn Care uses professional core aerators.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I know if my lawn needs aeration?

Try the screwdriver test: if a screwdriver is hard to push into dry soil, you have compaction. Other signs: water pooling after rain, thin grass despite good care, heavy foot traffic areas, or soil that feels hard as concrete. Most Oklahoma lawns benefit from annual aeration regardless—our clay soil loves to compact.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is overseeding?

Overseeding is spreading grass seed over your existing lawn to fill in thin areas, improve density, and introduce newer grass varieties. It’s not starting from scratch—it’s improving what you have. For Oklahoma Fescue lawns, fall overseeding is essential maintenance. (Bermuda spreads on its own and rarely needs overseeding.)

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

When should I overseed my lawn in Oklahoma?

For Fescue: September through October is prime time. Cool temps and fall moisture create perfect germination conditions. For Bermuda: don’t bother—Bermuda spreads by runners and fills in on its own when healthy. If you have Bermuda and it’s not filling in, the problem is lawn health, not lack of seed.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I care for my lawn after overseeding?

Water lightly but frequently—keep the top inch of soil moist until seeds germinate (7-14 days). Then gradually transition to deeper, less frequent watering. Avoid heavy traffic for 3-4 weeks, and wait until new grass is 3-4 inches tall before mowing. Patience pays off with overseeding.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Can I overseed Bermuda grass?

You can, but it’s usually unnecessary. Bermuda spreads aggressively on its own through runners (stolons and rhizomes). If your Bermuda isn’t filling in, the issue is lawn health—not lack of seed. Focus on proper fertilization, watering, and weed control, and Bermuda will do its thing. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program encourages natural Bermuda spread.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How long after overseeding can I mow?

Wait until new grass reaches 3-4 inches tall before the first mow—usually 3-4 weeks after germination. Set the mower high and only remove the top third. Mowing too soon can pull up tender seedlings before they’re established. Be patient and let those babies grow roots first.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the difference between aeration and dethatching?

Aeration removes plugs of soil to relieve compaction. Dethatching removes the layer of dead grass and debris (thatch) sitting on the soil surface. Both improve lawn health, but they address different problems. Most Oklahoma lawns need aeration annually; dethatching is only needed when thatch exceeds ½ inch.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I prepare my lawn for spring?

Start with a light raking to remove debris and fluff up matted grass. Apply pre-emergent before soil hits 55°F (late February-early March). Once grass greens up, begin regular mowing at proper height. Schedule your fertilization program. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program kicks off with perfectly timed spring applications.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I prepare my lawn for summer?

Set your irrigation for deep, infrequent watering. Raise mowing height slightly—taller grass shades roots and retains moisture. Keep up with fertilization, but avoid high-nitrogen applications during extreme heat. And honestly? During July and August, your main job is just keeping it alive until fall. Complete Lawn Care helps your lawn survive Oklahoma summers.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I prepare my lawn for fall?

Fall is GO time for Oklahoma lawns! Schedule aeration, apply fall fertilizer, overseed fescue if needed, and keep mowing until growth stops. This is when you set up next spring’s success. Complete Lawn Care’s fall applications help your lawn store nutrients and build root strength for winter.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I prepare my lawn for winter?

Gradually lower the mowing height on your last few mows. Keep leaves cleared so they don’t smother grass. Apply the final fertilizer application before dormancy. Then… relax! Once Bermuda goes dormant, there’s not much to do until spring. Enjoy the off-season—your lawn certainly is.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

When does grass stop growing in Oklahoma?

Bermuda typically stops growing when temps consistently stay below 60°F—usually mid-November in Tulsa. It’ll go brown (dormant), but don’t worry—it’s not dead, just sleeping. Fescue slows but often keeps some growth through mild winters. Your mower gets a break, but your lawn’s still alive down there.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

When does grass start growing in spring?

Bermuda begins waking up when soil temps consistently hit 65°F—typically late March to mid-April in Oklahoma. You’ll see green spreading from the base. Don’t rush it—green-up happens on the lawn’s schedule, not ours. Complete lawn care times spring applications around green-up for maximum effectiveness.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

PETS, KIDS & SAFETY

How long after lawn treatment can my pets go outside?

Wait until the application dries completely—usually 1-2 hours depending on weather conditions. Once dry, treated areas are generally safe for pets. When in doubt, wait longer. Complete Lawn Care uses EPA-registered products and always provides specific instructions after each service. Your furry family members matter to us too.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How long after lawn treatment can my kids play on the lawn?

Same as pets—wait until the application has fully dried, typically 1-2 hours. We recommend keeping kids off treated areas until then. Once dry, normal play can resume. Complete Lawn Care always communicates drying time expectations and uses products registered for residential use.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Are lawn care chemicals safe for pets?

When applied correctly and allowed to dry, professionally applied lawn care products are generally safe for pets. Complete Lawn Care uses EPA-registered products designed for residential lawns where pets live. Always wait until treatments dry before allowing pets back on the lawn, and follow any specific instructions from your technician.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Are lawn care chemicals safe for kids?

Professional lawn care products, applied correctly and allowed to dry, are designed to be safe for residential environments where kids play. Complete Lawn Care prioritizes family safety—we use EPA-registered products and always communicate specific re-entry instructions. Keep kids off treated areas until dry (1-2 hours typically).

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

RESULTS & COMMON LAWN PROBLEMS

What are signs of an unhealthy lawn?

Watch for yellowing or browning patches, excessive weeds, bare spots that won’t fill in, grass that doesn’t bounce back after walking on it, or thin/sparse growth. If your lawn looks bad despite regular watering, something deeper is wrong—soil issues, disease, pests, or improper care. Complete Lawn Care can diagnose what’s really happening.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What are common lawn care mistakes?

The hits: mowing too short, watering daily (shallow instead of deep), fertilizing at wrong times, skipping pre-emergent, ignoring soil health, and the classic “more is better” over-application. Many homeowners try harder but get worse results because they’re making these mistakes. Complete Lawn Care eliminates the guesswork.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Why are there brown spots after weed treatment?

That’s actually the weeds dying—mission accomplished! As weeds die, they turn brown and create temporary voids until healthy grass fills in. This is normal and expected. If the brown spots are your GRASS (not weeds), that’s different—call your provider. Complete Lawn Care follows up to make sure you’re seeing expected results.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Why is my lawn turning brown?

Could be drought stress, dormancy (normal in winter), disease, pest damage, over/under fertilization, or improper mowing. Brown Bermuda in winter? Normal. Brown patches in summer while the rest is green? That’s a problem needing diagnosis. Complete Lawn Care can figure out what’s causing your specific brown spots and fix it.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

Why is my lawn turning yellow?

Yellow often indicates nutrient deficiency (especially nitrogen), overwatering, soil compaction, or disease. Iron chlorosis (common in Oklahoma’s alkaline soil) also causes yellowing. The good news: these are all fixable. A soil test identifies the cause, and proper treatment corrects it. Complete Lawn Care offers soil testing to get to the root of the problem.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What causes bare spots in my lawn?

Could be pet urine, heavy foot traffic, grub damage, disease, chemical spills, soil compaction, or that one spot where water pools. Each cause needs different treatment. Before throwing seed at it, figure out WHY it’s bare—or you’ll just keep having the same problem. Complete Lawn Care diagnoses the cause, not just the symptom.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How can I make my lawn thicker?

Thick lawns come from proper mowing height (not too short!), consistent fertilization, adequate water, and healthy soil. For Bermuda, these practices encourage natural spreading. For fescue, fall overseeding adds density. Aeration helps both by reducing compaction. Complete Lawn Care’s 7-step program builds thickness over time—no magic required.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What causes lawn disease?

Most lawn diseases need three things: a susceptible grass, the disease organism, and favorable conditions (usually excessive moisture and/or heat). Overwatering, poor drainage, mowing too low, and stressed grass all invite disease. A healthy, properly maintained lawn resists disease naturally. Complete Lawn Care builds lawn health to prevent problems.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is brown patch disease?

Brown patch is a fungal disease causing circular brown patches, especially in fescue during hot, humid weather. It spreads fast if conditions persist. Prevention: avoid evening watering, don’t over-fertilize with nitrogen, and maintain good air circulation. If you see circular brown areas spreading, call Complete Lawn Care—we can treat it.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I fix a patchy lawn?

First, identify why it’s patchy—different causes need different solutions. Then address the underlying issue (compaction, pests, disease, etc.). For Bermuda, proper care often lets it fill in naturally. For fescue, overseeding helps. Sometimes spot-sodding is fastest. Complete Lawn Care can diagnose your patchiness and recommend the right fix.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What causes grubs in my lawn?

Grubs are beetle larvae—adults lay eggs in your soil in summer, and the larvae hatch and start munching roots. They’re attracted to healthy, well-watered lawns (ironic, right?). Grubs are extremely common and don’t mean you did something wrong. Prevention with properly timed grub control is your best defense.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I know if I have grubs?

Classic signs: irregular brown patches that roll back like carpet (roots are gone), increased bird activity (they’re hunting grubs), or visible white C-shaped larvae when you dig. Damage usually appears in late summer/early fall. Suspect grubs? Pull back some turf in a brown area—if it lifts easily with no roots, you’ve got grubs.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What do grubs do to my lawn?

Grubs eat grass roots. Without roots, your lawn can’t absorb water or nutrients, so it wilts, browns, and dies. Heavy infestations can destroy entire lawn areas in weeks. Even worse: animals dig up your lawn hunting grubs. The damage compounds fast. Prevention is much easier than repair.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

When should I treat for grubs?

Preventive treatment in late spring/early summer is most effective—before grubs hatch and start feeding. Curative treatment (once damage appears) is less effective. If you treated too late and have damage, you’ll need to kill grubs AND repair the lawn. Complete Lawn Care’s program includes properly timed grub prevention.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is the best grub killer for lawns?

Preventive products (like those containing imidacloprid or chlorantraniliprole) work best when applied before grubs hatch. Curative products for active infestations include carbaryl or trichlorfon. Professional application ensures proper timing and coverage. Complete Lawn Care uses professional-grade products timed for Oklahoma’s grub lifecycle.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is thatch, and why is it a problem?

Thatch is a layer of dead grass, stems, and roots that builds up between your green grass and the soil. A thin layer (½ inch or less) is fine—even beneficial. Too much thatch blocks water and nutrients, harbors pests and disease, and creates weak, shallow-rooted turf. Aeration helps manage thatch naturally.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

How do I get rid of thatch in my lawn?

Light thatch: aeration helps it break down naturally. Heavy thatch (over 1 inch): power dethatching may be needed, but it’s hard on the lawn—time it during active growth. Best approach: prevent buildup through proper mowing (mulching clippings), appropriate fertilization, and annual aeration. Complete Lawn Care helps manage thatch through our regular program.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

What is soil compaction?

Compaction is when soil particles get pressed together, squeezing out air spaces. It’s like your lawn is trying to breathe through a wet blanket. Oklahoma’s clay soil compacts easily from foot traffic, mowing, and even heavy rain. Compacted soil = weak roots, poor drainage, thin grass. Aeration is the solution.

For more in-depth information, click the link below: [BLOG POST LINK]

READY FOR A LAWN YOU’LL LOVE?

Complete Lawn Care has been helping Tulsa-area homeowners achieve beautiful, healthy lawns since 2000. Our 7-step lawn care program is specifically designed for Oklahoma’s unique soil, climate, and grass types. We also offer weekly mowing service, irrigation repair and maintenance, soil testing, and more.

Get Your Free Quote. Today!

Call: (918) 605-4646

Email: [email protected]

Online: completelawncaretulsa.com/get-a-quote

Serving Tulsa, Broken Arrow, Bixby, Jenks, Owasso, Sand Springs, and surrounding communities.

Related Posts